As December approaches, a chill settles over the hills of Kohima. Wood smoke fills the air, and the beat of distant log drums begins to reverberate through the valley. This is the setup for the Hornbill Festival at Kisama Heritage Village, a gathering of Nagaland's 17 major tribes.
It is easy to label Hornbill a cultural showcase, but it is far more visceral than that. It is a celebration of winter survival and ancestral pride. You walk through the morungs—traditional tribal youth houses—and sit on low wooden stools around open fires. Warrior elders in towering feather headgear and red woven shawls sit beside you, roasting meats and sharing stories of old village rivalries. You will hear the terrifying, beautiful war chants of the eastern tribes, watch the high-energy dances of the southern valleys, and taste smoked pork cooked with local ghost chilis. It is a warm, roaring hearth in the middle of winter, and an experience that stays with you long after the embers have gone cold.